Shades Styles Without Squinting 时髦墨镜不眯眼睛

摘自2013年四月25日华尔街日报

对男士们来说,墨镜是最显眼的时装之一。莫根塔尔·弗莱德里克斯公司 就是在2006年获得那个眼镜镜框商标的公司 的总设计师、产品和豪华镜框设计部的主管杰夫·帕莱斯说,“没有任何一个装饰品可以比墨镜更显眼了”。

怎样着装对很多男士来说是至关重要的一件事。比如,帕莱斯先生有十二付太阳眼镜轮换使用,在决定选用哪一付眼镜的时候,他会从“我要把我打扮成什么样的人和打扮成怎么样的人”来考虑。今年,他会选择从新又流行的大镜片粗框架型的,飞行员或者运动员式的那一种来佩戴。

上个世纪三、四十年代的式样又从新回来成为时髦的了。帕莱斯先生说,在这些从新成为时髦的款式中,他偏爱那种大镜片粗框架的,水牛角那样的,和随它而来的各种变型款式。虽然帕莱斯先生相信这种从新成为新潮的眼镜镜框可以配很多种的衣着,但是带这样款式的眼睛镜框也必须是符合你想要表达的原则。他劝告说,只能把一个项目成为你整个穿着中的的亮点。他说,“依照可可·香奈尔的规则,衣着时绝不能同时有多个亮点”。宁可考虑这样的打扮:古典式的装饰配在现代的时尚上。

帕莱斯先生,说如果是用在休闲一些的场合,飞行员式的眼镜是很酷的古典式代表而且也很通用。“就像牛仔裤一样,可以去到不同的场合。”戴这些类型的眼镜可以去运动或者外出闲逛,从吃饭的时候到海边溜达也都适合。戴着稍微小一些的,给人一种光亮感觉的那种款式去上班也不错。如果你希望戴这样的眼镜配高雅的服装,他建议这时的太阳眼镜“镜片不要太大,镜框也不要太粗”,因为“你要你的太阳眼镜来衬托你,而不能让你的太阳眼镜去占居主要地位。”

帕莱斯先生也是时髦的“俱乐部主人”太阳眼镜的粉丝,这个牌子曾经被老牌的“雷朋”用过,这类款式的太阳眼镜就是那种有金属桥梁架,而上面的镜框却是又粗又厚的太阳眼镜。他解释说,“这就像那个马尔科姆X的样子了。”“戴这样的太阳眼镜配正装很合适,而且也很休闲。这样打扮不仅独特而且超酷。”

近些年了,当粗大纤维塑胶镜框成为时髦时候,帕莱斯先生觉得他自己比较喜欢那些比较薄的那些镜框,因为那些显得更新颖更通用。他说,“它们是非常完美,特别适合在着正装时佩戴。”

对于镜框,帕莱斯先生喜欢素净的色彩和具有各种变化的颜色,就象橄榄色和茄子的颜色,这样的话,“你就可以配多种色彩的衣服了”。对于镜片来说,他说,“蓝色和绿色是现在流行的颜色,玻璃瓶的绿色真的又回来了,它满有古典的样子。”蓝色的镜片与传统的镜框形成明显的反差,比如龟板色的镜框。

帕莱斯先生,强调指出不要“醒目的商标或者那些不必要的细节。”同时,他也不认为脸型是你选择太阳眼镜款式的主要因素。他留意到,戴圆形的镜框的太阳眼镜比较具有挑战性,相反人们比较习惯长方形的镜框。

不要忘记带太阳眼镜的目的。他说,“我总是要确定我所带的太阳眼镜足够大,可以真正地挡住太阳光。不会在太阳光下眯着眼睛。”


讨论问题:

1.    你从这篇文章中学到什么?

2.    时尚潮流对你的衣着和装饰有什么影响?为什么?

3.    你是怎样来决定你自己的打扮?(比如,你是怎样选择太阳眼镜、鞋子、衣服和其他的装饰品的?)

From Wall Street Journal, April 25th, 2013

Sunglasses are one of the most visible fashion statements a man can make. "There's no accessory that's more obvious," says Jeff Press, chief designer of Morgenthal Frederics and director of product development and design for Luxury Optical Holdings, which acquired the eyewear label in 2006.

And for many men, fashion is playing a bigger role in their choice. When Mr. Press, who has about 12 pairs of sunglasses in regular rotation, selects his shades, he starts by thinking about "what or who do I want to look like." This year, his essential sunglass types are a chunky retro style, an aviator and perhaps a sporty wraparound look.

Retro looks that conjure the 1930s and 1940s are currently in fashion. Among them, Mr. Press says he is partial to chunky buffalo-horn styles in a variety of shapes. While Mr. Press believes the retro look is versatile, it is also "statement oriented." He advises making this the only striking accessory in your ensemble. "Take the Coco Chanel theory of not doing too much all at once," he says. It's preferable to juxtapose vintage-looking items with modern styles.

Going a notch more casual, aviator styles are a "classic look that's the epitome of cool" as well as very versatile, Mr. Press says. "It's like that great pair of jeans that you just know works with many different looks." They can work for sporty or casual outings, from brunch to the beach. Smaller, sleek-looking versions can work for going to the office, too. If you're intending to wear this look with a more polished ensemble, he suggests getting a pair that's not "too oversize or bold," explaining, "you want your sunglasses to complement your look, not overtake it."

Mr. Press is also a fan of the trendy "Clubmaster" look, a type named after a vintage Ray-Ban model with a thick bold top and a metal bridge. "It's that Malcolm X kind of look," he explains. "It's great with a suit but it's great casually, too. It's super-distinctive and super cool."

While chunky acetate frames have been trendy in recent years, Mr. Press finds himself gravitating toward thinner ones, which he says feel fresher and are more versatile. "They're very clean and terrific with a suit," he says.

When it comes to frames, Mr. Press favors neutral colors and shades such as olive and deep eggplant" that you can wear with a lot of clothing." In lenses, "blue and green are really popular right now," he says. "Bottle green is really retro and is great for a vintage look." Blue can work well when contrasted with a more traditional frame, perhaps one in tortoise, for example.

Mr. Press urges avoiding "really bold logos or a lot of superfluous detail work going on." While he doesn't believe face shape should be a big factor when choosing your style of sunglasses, he cautions that round frames can be a challenging shape. Rectangles, on the other hand, are easy to wear for most people.

Don't forget about practicality. "I always make sure I'm wearing something big enough so I'm actually getting protection from the sun," he says. "You don't want to be out in the sun squinting."


Discussion Questions:

1.      What did you learn from this article?

2.       Does fashion trends play a role in your clothing or accessory choices?  Why or why not?

3.       Where do you make your fashion statements (for example, in your choice of sunglasses, shoes, clothing or other accessories)?

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