New Wrinkle in Men’s Wear: Shops Just for Men 男士服装的曲折过程 – 男士服装店的新路历程

传统的观念,男人的通常只是买一些普通的佩斯利涡旋纹花呢或者格子花呢料的服装。在绝大部分商店里,男装的地位总是不及女装,不是放在商店的最里面,就是放在地下室这些不耀眼的地方,然而女装却就陈立在商店的前门口和商场的中心。

但是在一次女装总是占据在主导地位的纽约时装周的开始,人们不曾想到的事,男女平等的斗争居然在服装业里也体现出来了。在商店里,男士们也要求有比较好的服务,然而经销商也愿意为此提供相应的服务。

“长久以来,男人逛商店就像个二等公民”,GQ的创新部主管吉姆·穆尔这么说。“人们一直以为在商场里,男士们对时装不关心,到百货店来的男士,只是来买双袜子和一件内衣的。”

但是最近几个月,不少零售店开设了专门为男士提供的时装商店,而且商店的布置也是专门为男士设计的,还有专门为男士用品的服务。Bergdorf Goodman Saks Fifth Avenue (两家著名的服装百货店 译者註)都从新装修了整个男装部,而Urban Outfitters(一个拥有400多家销售店的大公司 译者註)特别制作了男士的时装和用品的目录册。甚至Fashion Week 的时装发布会上有了更多精制的男装。

以前都认为男人都是很顽固的,是在经济不好的时候尤其不肯花钱,但是现在零售商们越来越觉得尤其是新一代的男士非常钟爱时装,对于诸如Coach J. Crew是很喜欢的。至少年轻男士不会不喜欢逛商店。

豪华的时装名牌,诸如Hermès Bottega Veneta也开设了专门为男士的服装商店,来满足不断增长的市场需要。

在八月,著名的红底高跟鞋设计师柯斯辛·卢布汀在纽约麦哈顿的肉类加工区开设了他计划今年要开设的三家男时装商店中的第一家。卢布汀先生估计他对男士的营业额不需要几年,就会从现在的百分之五,增长到百分之二十。而他所设计的男鞋通常是两千美金一双。

男士时装市场的增长一部分是因为经济的原因,但是主要的功劳是要归于男士们总体对时装的兴趣。“男士的服装一直落后女士的服装,这样的传统已经不只是几十年而是几百年的事实。”NPD的工业总分析师马歇尔·科恩这么说。“在经济衰退的时候,男装是首当其冲,也是最后才复苏的。但是这次却绝然不同。”

弄清楚新一代男士的需求并不是一件简单的事,为此零售商正积极地研究他们私密的购物心态。于是一些没曾想到的事情被发现了,比如男士们喜欢商场里的椅子,这表示就算他们没有什么东西要买,但是他们并不反对与其他人一起逛商店。在商店的装饰中,使用深色对男士们来说也是很要紧的。商场里的音乐也要符合他们的口味。不少商店用“男士们的山洞”来形容这样的布置。

自从那个以女士手提包而著名的公司 – Coach,在两年前开设了一些男士用品专卖店,一些男士用品,诸如手提公文包和皮夹子的销售量增长了四倍。今年预计男士用品的销售额将达四亿美元。男士们已经成为如此重要的客人,以至于公司把所有的店都装修有专门为男士的商业环境区。

在美得胜大道五百九十五号的商店里,男士部的墙是漆成如同巧克力一样的棕色,光线是柔和的,这是与其他部门有很大的不同,在其他部门却是铺设了耀眼的瓷砖。男士们受到完全不同的待遇。

“女士喜欢有人为她们服务;而男士们喜欢自己动手,但是希望有人指引。”资深副总裁格莱歌·尤尼斯说。“当男士们进入商店的时候,他们不希望有招到突然袭击的感觉。”

在多伦多布鲁尔街的Club Monaco 旗舰店里,一个专门为男士服装的区域在十一月开始营业了,在那里陈列了一些粗花呢的上衣,边上撒着一些木碎片,而且你可能会听到在滚石乐队“放逐在曼恩街”的音乐,或者60年代雷鬼歌手的音乐。

“现在”,公司的副总裁艾伦·莱文说,“我们的男孩子要求有他们自己的领域,如同对待女孩子一样。”



    讨论问题

1. 你觉得这文章有什么特别的地方?

2. 你是否同意文章里的观点?

3. 你是否还有其他什么原因使现在出现男士服装的浪潮?

4. 还有什么男士逛商店的喜好?

5. 男士与女士在逛商店有什么不同的喜好?





The conventional wisdom about guys and shopping has always been that they go together like paisley and plaid, which is to say not very well. There is a reason men’s wear in most stores is relegated to the back walls and the basements, while women’s wear is front and center.

But at the beginning of another New York Fashion Week, an event long dominated by the top designers of women’s wear, it would seem that the fight for gender equality has finally come to the place where one might least expect it. When shopping, men are demanding better service, and retailers are providing it.

"For too long, male shoppers were considered to be the stepchildren,” said Jim Moore, the creative director of GQ. “There were a lot of assumptions on the retail level that men weren’t interested in fashion and that they just went to department stores to buy socks and underwear.”

But in recent months, a surprising number of retailers have opened stores that cater solely to their male customers, with specialized environments and customer service. Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue have remodeled their men’s floors, and Urban Outfitters created a separate catalog for men. Even Fashion Week has more events tailored to men’s wear. 

...While men have traditionally been stubborn consumers, and the fastest to close their wallets during times of economic strain, there is a growing sense among retailers, evidenced by the phenomenal success of new men’s concepts from labels like Coach and J. Crew, that a new generation of male consumers actually embraces fashion. Or at least that younger guys are not so afraid of shopping

Luxury designer labels like Hermès and Bottega Veneta have responded to a growing market by opening distinct stores for men, ....

In August, Christian Louboutin, the designer known for his red-soled stilettos, opened a store for men in the meatpacking district, the first of three men’s-only stores planned this year. Mr. Louboutin expects men’s shoes to grow to 20 percent of his business, from 5 percent, within a few years. And they typically cost $2,000 a pair.

...While the gain in men’s wear is partly attributed to the economy, a bigger factor has likely been the broader interest in fashion.“Men’s wear has traditionally lagged behind women’s wear for decades and decades,” said Marshal Cohen, the chief industry analyst of NPD. “It’s the first thing to spiral downward during a recession, and the last to recover — with the exception of this one.”

Figuring out the new male consumer, however, is not so simple, and retailers are studying their shopping habits in intimate detail. Among the unexpected things they have discovered is that guys like chairs, which create the impression that it is fine for them to hang out in a store, even if they are not shopping. Darker colors are also important in the décor. And the music should be tailored to their tastes. A lot of stores are using the term “man caves.”

Since Coach, a company best known for its women’s handbags, began opening stores for men two years ago, its sales of men’s products like briefcases and wallets quadrupled, to a projected $400 million this year. Men have become such important customers that the company has differentiated the shopping environment for them in existing stores.

In its store at 595 Madison Avenue, the men’s area has chocolate-brown walls and subdued lighting, while the rest of the store is lined with gleaming white subway tiles. And men are greeted differently.

“Women like to be helped, while men like to help themselves, but be guided,” said Greg Unis, a senior vice president. “They don’t want to be pounced on when they first walk into the store.”

Inside Club Monaco’s Bloor Street flagship in Toronto, a dedicated space for men’s wear opened in November and has displays of tweed jackets mixed with chopped logs, and you might hear a track from the Rolling Stones album “Exile on Main St.” or 1960s reggae.

...“At this point,” said Aaron Levine, the company’s vice president for men’s design, “our guy wants to have his own environment and wants to be catered to much in the same way that our girl does.”


Discussion Question

1.  What do you find interesting about this article?

2.  Are there points you agree or disagree with?

3.  Can you think of other reasons that influence the present interest in men's fashion?  

4.  What are some of the shopping habits of the men you know? 

5.  What differences in shopping habits have you noticed between male and female?

Comments